Adding Electric Baseboard Heaters to an Existing Circuit, Wiring Four Light Switches and Changing Light Switching Around
July 6, 2010
Douglas asks:
Can I run more than one 1000 watt baseboard heater on one line, using baseboard thermostats?
Answer:
First you need to determine the rating of your unit-mounted thermostats. They need to be rated for the total load which you intend on controlling with the t-stat. For example if you plan to add another 500 watts of heat, then your t-stat needs to be rated for 1,500 watts or more; if you are going to control both heaters with one t-stat.
To convert wattage to amperage, simple divide watts by volts. So let’s say that your heater is 1000 watts at 240 volts. Then this heater would draw 4.17 amps. So, in this scenario, it would be OK to add more heaters to this circuit.
Typically, electric baseboard heat is on a 30 amp circuit at 240 volts using #10 AWG wiring in a house. However, sometimes you will find lighter loads on a 20 amp circuit at 240 volts using #12 AWG wire.
Brandon asks:
I have one home run (12-2 romex) ran to a 4 gang box for 4 light switches. How do I wire up the 4 gang box?
Answer:
I’m going to assume that there is only one power supply cable and 4 switch leg cables (romex to the lights); and that the power is off. If this is the case, then connect all of the ground wires (bare copper) together and leave 4 tails to connect to the ground screws on each of the switches. Connect all of the neutrals (white wires) together and tuck these into the box. Cut 4 pieces of #12 AWG black wire approximately 8 inches long and connect them to the home run black wire. Now connect each black switch leg (black wire which goes to the light) to each switch. Next connect one each of the power supply tails to each switch. Install the switches and cover plate. Turn on the power and test.
Susan asks:
I have 2 wall switches for recessed lights. #1 has ten lights. #2 has only two. Is it possible to move two lights from # 1 and add them to #2. (how, if possible?) Contractor went overboard in the kitchen and under board in the dining area!
Answer:
Anything is possible. It depends on your framing, but you’ll probably need to cut some sheetrock to do this. What you need to do is install a 2 conductor NM cable with a ground (romex) from one of the lights on #2 switch to the 2 lights which you want on #1 switch. You need to disconnect the existing wiring to the lights on #1 switch, wire nut the ends and tuck them back into the boxes before connecting the new wiring from switch #2.
This type of question is best suited for my DIY Electrical Wiring Help from a Master Electrician service. There are lots of tricks and tips that I could offer here which may help prevent the need to cut any sheetrock and possibly some wiring tricks as well.
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Installing a New Light, Frequency for Testing a GFCI Receptacle and Wiring Recessed Cans
July 2, 2010
Rob asks:
I want to install a new light fixture. The fixture itself has 1 white wire, 1 black wire and the ground wire. However the wiring from the house has an additional red wire. When I wired it, I left the red wire capped, but when I turned the switch on, the circuit breaker flipped. How should I connect the wires?
Answer:
You should connect ground (bare copper or green wire) to ground, neutral (white wire) to neutral and hot (black wire) to hot. If this is the same configuration which you already have, then you need to test the wires to determine what you have existing.
Turn the switch(es) off. Use a voltage meter and test between the ground and neutral wires. You should have zero volts. Test between the neutral and black wires. You should have zero volts. Test between the neutral and red wires. You should have zero volts. If you have voltage while testing either of these configurations, then the configuration(s) with voltage is not switched.
If there are 2 switches, then only turn on one switch. Now test between the neutral and black wires. If you have voltage, then this wire is controlled by the switch you just turned on. If you do not have voltage, then check between the neutral and red wires. If you have voltage, then this wire is controlled by the switch you just turned on.
If you determine that you have something else, then let me know what your voltage readings were and I can help you further.
David Blass asks:
Is there a code requirement on the frequency for testing a gfi receptacle? If yes where can i find it, and what does the code say the frequency is?
Answer:
There is no code requirement regarding the frequency of testing GFCI receptacles. I believe that this is a manufacturers requirement. Most manufacturers suggest that you test your GFCI receptacles monthly.
Adam asks:
I have installed 6 recessed lights in a room in my house and now need to wire them up. I intend to run a new circuit for the lights and they will be operated by a singular switch (possible dimmer). I am familiar with wiring, but on airplanes, not houses! A written explanation will work, but I think a diagram would be great if you could provide one.
Answer:
Install 14/2 NM cable (romex) from your breaker box to the switch box. Now install a 14/2 NM cable from the switch box to your first recessed can. Next install a 14/2 NM cable from your first recessed can to your second recessed can. Repeat this process for all six recessed cans. This circuit needs to be connected to a 15 amp circuit breaker maximum.
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Finding Bolts for Your Electric Dryer Power Cord, Wiring a 3-Prong Dryer Receptacle and Wiring GFCI Receptacles
June 29, 2010
Angila Adams asks:
I have a really big problem; I have a Signature 2000 Dryer by Norge! I was going to change the power cord to a four prong but, can’t cause I lost the bolts for the wires! I’ve bought all different size bolts and can’t find the right size and just wondering if you can help me with that. I would be very thankful cause I got some clothes I would like to dry at home instead of a dang laundry mat lol.
Answer:
You have a few options here. I’m guessing that you dropped the bolts down inside of the dryer. So, you could take apart the dryer and retrieve the bolts. This is very easy to do. First, unplug your dryer. The top of the dryer lifts up and is typically hinged on the backside. A flat blade screwdriver works well to lift the top up. Now you will need to remove the front panel with the door. This is usually held in place with 2 sheet metal screws. The screws are on each side, near the top of the panel and on the inside. After you remove the front panel, you need to remove the drum. This typically pulls forward; be careful not to break the belt wrapped around the drum. The screws should be on the bottom. If there is lint or dust in the bottom of your dryer, then this is a great time to clean the inside of your dryer.
Another option is to look in your local yellow pages book for “Appliance Service and Repair”. Hopefully, someone local has the bolts in stock. If not, then there is always the internet. I recommend Appliance Parts Pros. I live in a rural area and our local appliance parts stores never seem to have the part which I’m looking for. I’ve used Appliance Parts Pros several times and they have always provided a great service.
Ed asks:
What about hooking up a 4 wire supply cord from the electric box to a 3 prong (old style) receptacle? The black and red (hot) wires and the white wire (neutral) all go into the receptacle. But what about the bare copper wire? It’s obviously a ground wire, so can I just attach it to the metal case of the receptacle?
Answer:
Yes. You are required to bond all metallic parts. This includes the metal case of the receptacle.
Kenny asks:
I have a 20 AMP breaker with 12-2 wire for my first floor kitchen where there are 2 wires attached to it. One wire goes to an outlet on the kitchen counter that I have a GFCI on by itself. The other wire goes to 2 outlets in the same double box. I have installed 2 GFCI outlets in the box wired correctly I believe. The wire coming from the breaker is on the line side of the first GFCI and the second GFCI with a jumper going from the line to the Load side of the first GFCI. Will this cause a problem? They seem to work fine as I have plugged lights into both in the double box and they stay lit and do not blow the GFCI. Will the single GFCI in the box by itself protect the other outlets in the double box due to them being attached at the Breaker? I do not mind it being overkill if that is all it is, due to it being an rental apartment.
Answer:
The first GFCI will NOT protect the others through the circuit breaker.
You do not need the second GFCI in the double gang box. You can use a regular duplex receptacle here as it will be protected by the GFCI. If you elect to keep the second GFCI in the double gang box, then you may change the terminations on the first GFCI to the line side instead of the load side.
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A Couple of Awesome Giveaways You Need to Enter
June 15, 2010
One Project Closer is giving away a SKIL router table (model #RAS900) today. This baby is sweet. I need one of these for my shop.
- Efficient folding design
- Quick clamp router mount
- Accessory storage boxes
- Starter pin and guard
- Bit height gauge
You should head on over and enter their SKIL Tool Giveaway | Tuesday | RAS900 Router Table. This giveaway ends today at 7:59 PM EST.
I found another great giveaway over at Young House Love. Wow, one very lucky winner will win the mother-load of Father’s Day gifts. They are giving away 7 different items to one lucky winner. You just need to leave a comment on their blog to enter. You need to head on over to Young House Love’s Fab Freebie: Father Lowe’s Best giveaway and enter now. This giveaway ends Wednesday, June 16th at 8pm EST.
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Supplying Power to a Detached Garage, Feeding an Outside GFCI Receptacle and Replacing Worn Out Receptacles
June 15, 2010
Bill Neklia asks:
I would like to run power to my detached garage so I have power for lights, an oil furnace, table saw, drill and grinder. I have 110 amp service at the house, Can I use a 60 amp circuit breaker at the house panel to send power to the garage?
Would I use 3#6 wire (copper)? Is it a 2 pole circuit breaker?
Answer:
Yes, you may use a 60 amp breaker to feed your detached garage. Yes, #6 AWG THHN/THWN individual copper conductors in a PVC conduit will work if the wire length between your detached garage and the existing breaker box on your house is 150 feet or less. If it is longer, then you need to up size the wire to compensate for voltage drop. If you use #6 AWG THHN/THWN copper wires, then a 3/4 inch PVC conduit will work. However, I recommend installing a 1 1/4 inch PVC conduit. This will make it so much easier to pull your wire and this is the size conduit needed if you ever want to upgrade the service on the garage to 100 amps. I also recommend installing a #8 AWG THHN/THWN ground wire and keep your ground and neutral wires separated at the breaker box in the garage.
A 60amp, 2-pole breaker will give you 60 amps at 240 volts. I don’t think they make a single pole 60 amp breaker, but if they did/do it would give you 60 amps at 120 volts.
Lew asks:
Can I piggy back off the wash machines 20 amp receptacle (currently sole dedicated) and tie in an exterior (outside) GFI receptacle?
Answer:
Yes, you may use the washing machine receptacle to feed your outside GFCI. However, the washing machine uses a lot of power. If you plan to use the outside receptacle at the same time the washing machine is running, then you will probably trip the breaker. I recommend a dedicated circuit or find another receptacle to tap into.
Marc Ramos asks:
What written directive constitutes replacement of residential electrical receptacles? What justifies a receptacle to be replaced and where is this requirement? I have several receptacles that are loose and does not hold the plug in place.
Answer:
To my knowledge, there isn’t one. I’m assuming that you are in a rental and would like your landlord to do this for you. My recommendation is to talk to your local electrical inspector. There may be a local code which requires this.
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