How to Rewire a Floor Lamp

Today I’m going to provide step-by-step instructions with pictures on how to rewire a floor lamp. The lamp cord was damaged and needed to be replaced. In my opinion, this is the best method for repairing a bad or damaged lamp cord. Another alternative would be to use butt splices and heat shrink tubing. However, this looks tacky and very unprofessional.

Before we get started, be sure the lamp is unplugged, remove the lamp shade and light bulb.

As you can see in the image, the lamp cord was damaged. My step son’s puppy chewed the cord. So it needs to be replaced.	Click on image to enlarge
You are going to need some lamp cord and a plug for materials to complete this task. These items cost me a little under $6.00 at Lowes.	Click on image to enlarge
Step 1. Remove the lamp harp.	Click on image to enlarge
Step 2. Remove the outer part of the lamp socket.	Click on image to enlarge
Step 3. Now grab the inner part of the lamp socket and gently pull it out exposing 6 to 8 inches of the lamp cord.	Click on image to enlarge
Step 4. This is what your lamp should look like at this point.	Click on image to enlarge
Step 5. Now tip the socket upside down; turning the wires up.	Click on image to enlarge
Step 6. Slip the wires out of the supports.	Click on image to enlarge
Step 7. Now you need something small to remove the wires. A large paper clip works well here.	Click on image to enlarge
Step 8. If you look in the hole with the wire, you will notice a piece of spring steel at an approximate 45 degree angle pinching the wire. Simply push down on the spring steel while pulling the wire out.	Click on image to enlarge
Step 9. Repeat the process for the other wire.	Click on image to enlarge
Step 10. Now remove the clear bushing.	Click on image to enlarge
Step 11. Now go to the bottom of the lamp and cut the lamp cord to approximately 6 inches long.	Click on image to enlarge
Step 12. Remove the clear bushing at the bottom of the lamp.	Click on image to enlarge
Step 13. Use your diagonal pliers to cut down the center of the wires approximately 1/2 of an inch deep.	Click on image to enlarge
Step 14. Spread the 2 wires apart approximately 4 inches long.	Click on image to enlarge
Step 15. Strip approximately 2 1/2 inches of insulation off of the wires.	Click on image to enlarge
Step 16. Twist the strands of wire together; counterclockwise.	Click on image to enlarge
Step 17. Create a “U” shape with the bare wire. Bend the bare wire approximately 1/2 of an inch away from the insulation. Hook the 2 wires together and wrap the 1 inch tails back on each wire so that it looks like the picture.	Click on image to enlarge
Step 18. Use electrical tape to tape up the splice.	Click on image to enlarge
Step 19. Now use the existing lamp cord to pull in your new lamp cord. Pull from the lamp socket. You want pull approximately 6 to 8 inches beyond the lamp socket.	Click on image to enlarge
Step 20. Cut the lamp cord to approximately 4 inches long.	Click on image to enlarge
Step 21. Use your diagonal pliers to cut down the center of the wires approximately 1/2 of an inch deep.	Click on image to enlarge
Step 22. Peel the wires apart approximately 2 inches long. Then strip off approximately 3/4 of an inch of insulation and twist the wire strands together counterclockwise.	Click on image to enlarge
Step 23. Reinstall the clear bushing.	Click on image to enlarge
Step 24. Connect the neutral wire to the neutral terminal on the lamp socket. The neutral terminal on the lamp socket is marked. The neutral wire in the lamp cord is identified by either writing on the wire or ribs on the wire.	Click on image to enlarge
Step 25. Repeat the process for the hot wire.	Click on image to enlarge
Step 26. Slip the wires under the supports.	Click on image to enlarge
Step 27. Pull the lamp cord from the bottom of the lamp until the inner part of the lamp socket is flush with the bottom of the lamp socket.	Click on image to enlarge
Step 28. Snap the outer part of the lamp socket into place	Click on image to enlarge
Step 29. Reinstall the lamp harp.	Click on image to enlarge
Step 30. Reinstall the clear plastic bushing in the bottom of the lamp.	Click on image to enlarge
Step 31. Pinch the two prongs together and pull to remove the center portion of the plug assembly.	Click on image to enlarge
Step 32. You need the 2 pieces separated so that you can connect the plug to the lamp cord.	Click on image to enlarge
Step 33. Insert the lamp cord through the brown outer portion of the plug and into the center portion of the plug. You need to pay close attention to the direction that the lamp cord is placed into the plug. The wider prong is the neutral. The wire needs to be placed into the plug to allow the neutral prong to connect with the neutral wire.	Click on image to enlarge
Step 34. Pull the wire back through the brown outer portion allowing the center portion to properly seat and connect to the lamp cord.	Click on image to enlarge

 

Finally, install the light bulb (I recommend CFL or LED), lamp shade, plug in, turn on and test.

 

Popularity: 1% [?]

How To Size, Layout and Install Electric Baseboard Heaters

Milton asks:
I am currently adding the electric baseboard heaters to my home and I would like to know if the units require there own separate breakers or if they can be wired in such as multiple units on one breaker or on with other electrical receptacles. I have been unable to find a wire diagram for this issue.

Answer:
You are permitted to wire the units together. However, you need to pay attention to the total wattage and not overload your circuit. The total wattage will also determine the wire and circuit breaker size. To determine the total wattage needed for a room multiply the length by the width of the room. Once you have that number multiply it by 10.

So, let’s say you want to install electric baseboard heat in a bedroom which is 10 feet long x 12 feet wide. So, the minimum total wattage needed is 1200 [(10x12)x10=1200]. This would require either 1 – 5 foot heater (1250 watts) or 2 – 3 foot heaters (1500 watts) at 240 volts. Electric baseboard heaters rated at 240 volts are approximately 250 watts per foot.

Determining if you need 1 or 2 depends upon the number of windows in the bedroom and furniture layout. You want to place the heater under a window because the heat will rise clashing with the cold from the window causing a natural convection and circulating the heat around the room.

You are NOT permitted to install the heater under a receptacle or in any area where combustible vapors, gases, liquids, or excessive lint or dust are present. You also need 12 inches clearance above the heater and 6 inches clearance on each side of the heater.

To determine the wire and circuit breaker sizes divide the total wattage by the voltage, which will give you the amperage. Let’s say you install the 2- 3 foot heaters, then 1500 watts divided by 240 volts = 6.25 amps.

According to the National Electrical Code^® (NEC^®) section 424.3(A) “Branch circuits supplying two or more outlets for fixed electric space-heating equipment shall be rated 15, 20, 25, or 30 amperes.” So, you will need to use a 15 amp breaker which requires 14 AWG wire.

According to NEC^® section 424.3(B) “Fixed electric space heating equipment shall be considered a continuous load.” This means that you are permitted to fill the circuit breaker to 80 percent of the total load.

So, let’s say that you want to put an adjacent bedroom on this circuit as well. Let’s also say this adjacent bedroom is 10 foot wide by 12 foot long. If you wired the 2 bedrooms’ heaters together, then the total connected load is 12.5 amps. You are only permitted to fill a 15 amp breaker to 80 percent of the total load or 12 amps. So you need to increase the breaker size to 20 amps and increase the wire size to 12 AWG.

As for the thermostat, I recommend a wall mounted t-stat over a unit mounted t-stat. If your budget allows, I also recommend a programmable thermostat. Using the wall mounted t-stat will heat the room evenly. Using a programmable t-stat will allow you to turn your settings up and down automatically. So, you can turn the heat down to 62 degrees during the day while you are at work and set it to automatically adjust to 68 degrees just before you arrive home. This is also recommend to do while you are sleeping. This will save you money on your electric bill.

To wire the room simply install a cable from the breaker box to the t-stat and from the t-stat to the heater(s). The cable coming from the breaker box will connect to the line side of the t-stat and the cable going to the heater will connect to the load side of the t-stat. All electric baseboard heaters come with instructions on how to wire them.

If you are installing standard electric baseboard heaters, then you may install the wires at either end of the unit. However, if you are using the Softheat electric baseboard heaters, then you can only install the wires in the left end of the unit.

The most energy efficient electric baseboard heating system I recommend is the Softheat electric baseboard heater with a programmable, wall-mounted t-stat.

Regarding 120 volt heaters, I do not recommend using these as they use twice as much current than a 240 volt heater.

Popularity: 25% [?]

How to Wire a Recreation Room in Your Basement – Part 5: Terminating the Bathroom Circuit

In today’s article we are going to discuss terminating the bathroom circuit and getting everything ready for a rough electrical inspection. For anyone that missed the first four parts of this series, you may read them by clicking on the following links: How to Wire a Recreation Room in Your Basement – Part 1: Creating a Materials List, Installing the Boxes, Recessed Cans and Exhaust Fan How to Wire a Recreation Room in Your Basement – Part 2: Installing the Cables How to Wire a Recreation Room in Your Basement – Part 3: Terminating the Receptacle Circuits How to Wire a Recreation Room in Your Basement – Part 4: Terminating the Lighting Circuits
Let’s get started terminating the bathroom circuit. I figured we would start at the two 2-gang switch box. All of your cables should be labeled to make it easier to identify what each cable does.
The first step is to strip the outer sheath off of the cables and expose all of the wires. Be careful when you strip the cables, however. You want to save the little piece that has the markings on it for all of the load wires and place it back on the wire. This will help with remembering which wire is which and with any troubleshooting that may be required later.
Now let’s make up the grounds and attach 2 approximate 6 inch tails to connect to the switches later.
Next connect all of the neutrals together and place a wire nut on them.
Now connect the power wires together and attach 2 approximate 6 inch tails to connect to the switches later.
Finally, tuck all of the wires into the box. Try to push the wires as far back into the box as possible to protect them from the sheetrocker’s cutting tools.
Now let’s move to the GFCI receptacle box
The first step is to strip the outer sheath off of the cables and expose all of the wires. Be careful when you strip the cables, however. You want to save the little piece that has the markings on it for all of the load wires and place it back on the wire. This will help with remembering which wire is which and with any troubleshooting that may be required later.
Now let’s make up the grounds and attach 2 approximate 6 inch tails to connect to the switches later.
Finally, tuck all of the wires into the box. Try to push the wires as far back into the box as possible to protect them from the sheetrocker’s cutting tools.
Now let’s move to the ceiling lighting box
The first step is to strip the outer sheath off of the cables and expose all of the wires. Be careful when you strip the cables, however. I typically do not mark my wires in the lighting boxes. However, it may be helpful if you choose to.
Now let’s make up the grounds and place a wire nut on them.
Next connect all of the neutrals together and place a wire nut on them.
Now connect the power wires together and place a wire nut on them.
Finally, tuck all of the wires into the box. Try to push the wires as far back into the box as possible to protect them from the sheetrocker’s cutting tools.
Sorry, but I do not have an exhaust fan to hook up and provide pictures for. Be sure you use a 1/2 inch romex connector to connect the romex to the exhaust fan. The connections are straight forward. Simply connect the ground to ground, the neutral to neutral and the hot to hot. You only have 1 cable entering the vanity light. Simply strip the sheath off of the cable and tuck the wires into the box. Do the same for the vanity receptacle.

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How to Wire a Recreation Room in Your Basement – Part 4: Terminating the Lighting Circuits

In today’s article we are going to discuss terminating the lighting circuits and getting everything ready for a rough electrical inspection. For anyone that missed the first three parts of this series, you may read them by clicking on the following links: How to Wire a Recreation Room in Your Basement – Part 1: Creating a Materials List, Installing the Boxes, Recessed Cans and Exhaust Fan How to Wire a Recreation Room in Your Basement – Part 2: Installing the Cables How to Wire a Recreation Room in Your Basement – Part 3: Terminating the Receptacle Circuits
Let’s get started terminating all of the lighting circuits. I figured we would start at the two 2-gang boxes at the bottom of the stairs. All of your cables should be labeled to make it easier to identify what each cable does.
The first step is to strip the outer sheath off of the cables and expose all of the wires. Be careful when you strip the cables, however.
You want to save the little piece that has the markings on it for all of the load wires and place it back on the wire. This will help with remembering which wire is which and with any troubleshooting that may be required later.
Now let’s make up the grounds and attach 2 approximate 6 inch tails to connect to the switches later.
Next connect all of the neutrals together and place a wire nut on them.
Now connect the power wires together and attach 2 approximate 6 inch tails to connect to the switches later.
Finally, tuck all of the wires into the box. Try to push the wires as far back into the box as possible to protect them from the sheetrocker’s cutting tools.
Now let’s move to the switch box in the storage area under the stairs.
Again, the first step is to strip the outer sheath off of the cables and expose all of the wires. Be careful when you strip the cables here as well. You want to save the little piece that has the markings on it for all of the load wires and place it back on the wire.
Now let’s make up the grounds and attach 2 approximate 6 inch tails to connect to the switches later.
Next connect all of the neutrals together and place a wire nut on them.
Now connect the power wires together and attach 2 approximate 6 inch tails to connect to the switches later.
Finally, tuck all of the wires into the box. Try to push the wires as far back into the box as possible to protect them from the sheetrocker’s cutting tools.
For the final switch near the poker table, just follow the steps for the storage switch above. Since there is only 1 power wire, you may skip this step. Stay tuned for part 5, where we will discuss the bathroom connections.

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How to Wire a Recreation Room in Your Basement – Part 3: Terminating the Receptacle Circuits

In today’s article we are going to discuss terminating the receptacle circuits and getting everything ready for a rough electrical inspection. For anyone that missed the first two parts of this series, you may read them by clicking on the following links: How to Wire a Recreation Room in Your Basement – Part 1: Creating a Materials List, Installing the Boxes, Recessed Cans and Exhaust Fan How to Wire a Recreation Room in Your Basement – Part 2: Installing the Cables
The first thing you need to do is support all of the cables. To do this, I recommend plastic romex staples. All cables need to be supported within 12 inches of the box and every 4 1/2 feet thereafter. I like to place my staples approximately every 3 feet. You also need to ensure that there is atleat 1/2 inch of the romex sheath in the box after you strip the cables.
Let’s get started terminating all of the receptacle circuits. These are pretty simple and they will all terminate the same. I like to mark the “home run” or the cable that goes back to the breaker box. I take an approximate 2 – 3 inch piece of the romex sleeve and mark “HR” on it and slip it over the “home run” wires. This will make life much easier in the future if you need to do any troubleshooting.
When terminating your wires, you need to set them up so they will terminate to the device (receptacle or switch) easily. This means you need to terminate the ground wires on the left side of the box, the neutral wires in the center and the hot wires on the right side of the box. When cutting your wires, you need a minimum of 6 inches of wire measured from the back of the box.
Now, six inches of wire includes both ground wires. Most people make the same mistake and make one of the ground wires long and the other one is three inches long or less. What I do is run 1 ground wire down the right side of the box, bend it horizontally along the bottom of the box to the left side and bend it out of the box. If you cut the wire flush with the edge of the box, this should be six inches. Then run the other ground wire down the back of the box and bend it so it comes out on the left side of the box and leave it long. Twist the wires together so the long wire remains for a tail to connect to the ground screw on the receptacle. After the wires are twisted you need to use either a crimp sleeve or a green wire nut.
Now run the white wires down the back of the box and bend them so that they come out of the center of the box. Next run the black wires down the back of the box and bend them so that they come out of the right side of the box. Now cut the wires approximately 4 inches past the front of the box.
Finally fold all of the wires into the box so that the grounds are on the left, the white wires are in the center and the black wires are on the right side. Fold the wires and push them as far back into the box as possible so the sheet rockers can’t cut the wires when they are cutting out the boxes.
Make up all of the receptacle boxes according to the instructions above. There is only one receptacle box that you will mark the wires differently. That one is the one with the “home run” in the bar area. You need need to mark the “home run” wire with “HR” and “line” and the other wire as “load”. The reason for this is, you need to install a GFCI receptacle in the bar area. You need to know which wire is the line or power supply and which is the load or power out to properly wire a GFCI receptacle.

 

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