In-Wall Timers Recalled by Intermatic Due to Shock Hazard
November 17, 2009
On July 1, 2009 Intermatic Inc., of Spring Grove, IL recalled approximately 240,000 Intermatic model ST01 and EI600 in-wall electronic timers. When you try to replace the timer’s battery and place a metal object through the battery tray slot, the object can reach internal metal contacts, posing a shock hazard. Intermatic has received twelve reports of people receiving a minor shock while changing the timer’s battery.
This recall involves the Intermatic in-wall electronic timers with model numbers ST01, ST01C, ST01AC, ST01AC70, ST01C70, ST01CL, EI600C, EI600LAC, EI600LAC8, EI600WC, and EI600WC8. This product is a lamp and appliance timer and typically takes the place of a standard wall switch. The timer is white, off-white, or almond and measures 2 1/2 inches high by 1 3/4 inches wide. Model numbers can be found on the packaging and on the instruction. In-Wall timers are included in this recall if (1) the brand name “Intermatic” is molded on the front of the timer cover door, (2) the timer has only four keypad buttons, and (3) there is no 3-digit date code (e.g. “04C”) stamped on the inside of the timer cover door. Timers with a 3-digit date code (e.g. “04C”) stamped on the inside of the timer cover door are not included in this recall.
These units were sold at retailers and electrical distributors nationwide from March 2007 through June 2009 for between $25 and $45. They were manufactured in Mexico.
If you have one of these units, then you should not attempt to change the in-wall timer’s battery until you receive the repair kit. You should contact Intermatic to obtain a free repair kit with installation instructions. For additional information, call Intermatic toll-free at (877) 417-4316 anytime or visit their web site at http://www.intermatic.com/customer%20service/product%20recalls.aspx
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Q&A About Breaker Space Limits and Ratings in Electrical Panels
November 16, 2009
David asks:
I have a Square D QO panel in a one year old home – assume its a 200A panel. Currently, 38 of the 40 spaces are taken up with breakers and I need to add one or two breakers for some new work and to split up one room which is tripping when I use a space heater.
I went to Home Depot and was given two VERY different answers on the use of tandem breakers to preserve space in the panel. One employee (a belligerent and condescending fellow whose knowledge and opinion I question) told me the code limits the use of tandems to 4×15 amp tandems or 2×20 amp tandems.
At another Home Depot, an employee there says the above is not accurate and I can use as many tandems as the panel will hold although he concedes some panels restrict where they can be placed and therefore the ultimate number of tandems. He also pointed out that I probably want to limit the number of successive tandems proximity so as not to create a hot spot in the panel.
On this and other sites, I see there may be a 42 breaker limit. Since only 38 spaces are taken in my panel, there should clearly be room for two more, I would think.
Where I am confused are the following:
1) Is there a 42 breaker limit in a 40 space box?
2) Is there a limit on the number of tandem breakers usable provided I remain within the overall limit of breakers for the panel (eg can I use more than four 15A or two 20A breakers in any one panel?
3) If the 2 and 4 limit are correct – aside from wire gauge and specific need issues, why would anyone want to limit themselves to two 20A circuits when four 15A circuits will allow them additional flexibility?
4) Apparently some breakers count as two for the purposes of total max allowable breakers. I have two remaining spots (#39 and #40) unused. If I were to replace four single breakers with two tandems then it seems I am at the max 42 breaker limit but I would then have four available spots on the panel (the original two free spots plus two I just created by substituting tandems). Am I allowed to add additional breakers later? If so, this would presumably exceed the 42 breaker limit I have seen posted.
5) One HD employee suggested a sub panel if I exceeded the number of spaces on the main panel. Why is a sub panel allowed to get around the 42 breaker limit – surely the maximum load at any one time will be the same?
Guidance will be appreciated. Its a minor project I need to do but might as well understand it properly and do things correctly.
Answer:
First, let’s start with Home Depot; as you have just learned, this is not the place to get advice about electrical wiring. However, Home Depot does appear to be changing that. I’ve noticed that our local store here in Bozeman and the Billings, MT store do have a master electrician on staff. In my opinion, the only people that you should get advice about electrical wiring from is a licensed electrician, an electrical inspector or an electrical engineer. These are the people with the most training in the electrical industry and they are the “experts”.
OK, enough about that, let’s get on with the answers to your home electrical wiring questions.
1.) It depends on which electrical code has been adopted in your area. We are still using the 2005 edition of the National Electrical Code® (NEC®). Several states have not adopted the 2008 NEC® because they believe it is so controversial. Heck, Ohio reverted back to the 2002 edition. So you need to check with your local building codes division to see which edition they are enforcing in your area.
According to the 2005 edition of the NEC®, there is a 42 space limit. However, the 2008 NEC® sets the limit at 60 spaces. With that being said, your breaker box still needs to be rated for the additional spaces.
2.) Yes, there is a limit on the number of tandem breakers which you can install in your breaker box. First, your panel must be rated a Class CTL panelboard and it will be marked to indicate how many circuit breaker poles can be installed on the door of the breaker box. So you may be able to install 2 tandem breakers in your breaker box to get to the 42 spaces if you have a Class CTL panelboard.
3.) I’m not sure where the Home Depot employee got the two 20A circuits when four 15A circuits from, but it is wrong.
4.) I’m guessing that the breaker box which you already have was made before the 2008 code change and it is only rated for either 40 or 42 spaces maximum. You need to determine this by either checking the label on the door of the breaker box or contacting the manufacturer.
5.) The sub-panel allows for more breaker spaces, not more current or amperage. I’m guessing that Underwriters Laboratories set the limit of 42 spaces and the new 60 space limit. I believe that the limit is determined by what the buss is rated at. At any rate, there are no limits to the number of breakers which you may install in the building, the limit is in the breaker box and the amperage rating of your electric service.
When is comes to your electric service, you also need to check with your local building codes department to determine if you can do this work legally. Not all areas allow homeowners to install their own electric service. You may need a licensed electrician to do this work for you. You will need a permit for this project as well. The power company usually will not disconnect without a permit and definitely will not re-energize without an inspection.
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Troubleshooting a “Wall Wart” transformer, Connecting a 3-Wire Range Plug to 6/3 with Ground Romex and Wiring a Commercial Paint Booth
November 14, 2009
Ned asks:
My child’s baby monitor has a transformer at the wall plug for the camera. I recently noticed a light brown stripe around the middle of it. The transformer box is about 2?h x 1.5? w x 1?d and the stripe, which goes nearly all the way around, is about 1 cm wide. It looks like it has been caused by heat. It is plugged in right next to my kid’s crib, and I’m pretty concerned that this is a shorting, sparking, or fire hazard. Is this something I should be concerned about?
Answer:
Yes! I recommend unplugging it and take it to your local Radio Shack. They can look at it for you and they stock these if you need a new one.
Adrienne asks:
I ran 6-3 wire in my new addition for the range. It has 2 hots, a neutral, and a ground. We are wanting to temporarily use the old range we took out, however it is a 3-prong. How do we wire up a 3-prong non-grounding receptacle to 6-3? Where does the ground from the wire attach or does it need attached?
Answer:
At the receptacle, just hook up the 2-hots and 1-neutral wire. If you have a surface mounted receptacle or a metal box, then I recommend connecting the ground wire to the metal frame of the receptacle or the metal box.
Mike Boyer asks:
I’m replacing 10 old luminaires in a commercial paint booth with 10 new fluorescent fixtures that come with a magnetic normally open switch. The instruction sheet says for disconnecting the paint equipment upon opening the door of the fixture, but the equipment is run on compressed air. I assumed the switch was for disconnecting power to the fixture with some type of relays incorporated. Please help me with wiring these properly. The fixtures are rated for class 1 division 1.
Answer:
You are not permitted to have switches in a paint booth (unless they are in an explosion proof box; which is very expensive) because they spark when you turn them on which could ignite any fumes in there. This is why someone designed a more complex system using air switches; which do not cause a spark. At any rate, for commercial and industrial wiring you are required to be a licensed / qualified electrician to do this work. This is just one example why. If something is wired wrong here, there could be an explosion in addition to the risk of electric shock or electrocution. I highly recommend hiring a licensed or qualified electrician to complete this project for you.
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Ez DIY Electricity.com is giving away $100.00 at the end of November. Click here to register.
November 12, 2009
I’ve decided to give away $100.00 at the end of November to one lucky subscriber here at Ez DIY Electricity. I will send the $100.00 USD either via PayPal or I can send a postal money order if you do not have a PayPal account. This contest begins November 12, 2009 and ends November 30, 2009.
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To enter this giveaway you need to do two things:
1.) Subscribe to receive email updates from this blog. You need to enter a valid email address to win as I will contact the winner through their email address. The email subscription is “double opt in”, meaning you will receive an email confirming your subscription and you must click on the link to confirm. If you do not confirm your subscription, then you will not be entered into the contest. Your email address will never be sold, shared, traded, or spammed and you can unsubscribe at any time. You must remain subscribed through the drawing date of this giveaway to be eligible for the prize.
2.) You must tweet: @DIY_Electricity is giving away $100.00 at the end of November. Click here to register http://bit.ly/4C4z29
That’s it, you’re entered. On December 1, 2009 I will import the email addresses into a spreadsheet to put a number next to each email address. Then I will use random.org to select a winning number.
Rules:
1. This giveaway is for current email subscribers of Ez DIY Electricity only.
2. You must be 18 years of age or older. By entering this giveaway, you agree that you are 18 years of age or older.
3. Only 1 entry per email address.
4. The drawing will be held privately on the first of December, where I will pick 1 random winner from the current Ez DIY Electricity email subscription list.
5. Winners will be contacted by email. If after two days we do not receive a response, a second email will be sent. If still no response after 7 days, the prize will be noted as “Unclaimed”.
6. Winners may decline. If declined, their prize will be awarded to another randomly drawn name.
Online-Sweepstakes.com
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FAQ to Changing an Electric Dryer Power Cord from a 3-Prong Plug to a 4-Prong Plug
November 11, 2009
On August 17, 2006 I wrote Changing an Electric Dryer’s Power Cord from a 3-Prong Plug to a 4-Prong Plug. The purpose of the article was to teach everyone that the ground and neutral wires need to be separated when changing your dryer to a 4-wire configuration.
I’m not a dryer repair expert. I’ve installed several dryer cords and repaired dryers for myself, friends and family, but that’s the extent of it. If you have a dryer repair question, then I recommend Appliance Parts Pros – They offer live help, a repair forum, part photos, diagrams, same day shipping and you can return any part.
I think the number one question that everyone asked was what to do with the existing ground wire?
A: If you had an existing ground wire that was not connected to the neutral, then leave it connected in it’s current position. You may also connect the ground wire from your 4-wire cord to this same ground screw.
All that we are trying to accomplish here is to separate the ground from the neutral. All ranges and dryer ship from the factory with the ground and neutral connected. If you change your range or dryer to a 4-wire configuration, then the ground and neutral connections need to be separated.
Q: This article is very helpful. However, my husband did those exact same steps…the only problem is that our dryer has no heat. is this something that has to do with switching out the cords?
A: It could be and it could just be a coincidence as well. Are all of the connections tight and connected properly? If so, then I’m not sure. My guess would be a bad or broken heating element. Check with the guys at appliance parts pros. I think they would be more helpful.
Q: I have an Estate dryer and there is a black, red, and white connection and the new cord has a green ground wire. The external ground screw has a white wire running to it (I’m changing from a 3 prong cord) and the green wire on the new cord won’t reach it. What am I doing wrong?
A: I don’t think that you are doing anything wrong. Most times the wires are not stripped long enough from the factory. Just strip off a couple more inches of the outer jacket on the cord and push your cord further into the connector. This should lengthen your wire and solve your problem. Make sure the dryer is unplugged before you begin working on it.
Q: I switched my 3-prong plug to a 4-prong plug today. The only thing that I am still not sure about is my ground wire that was connected from the dryer, goes all the way back into the dryer. I unscrewed the old ground wire and connected the green ground wire from the 4-prong plug onto the ground wire screw. Now, I have this open prong from the old ground wire just hanging there. What do I do with it? Should I cover the end of the ground wire with an electric wire cap or electrical tape?
A: You need to reconnect this wire. The only thing that needs to be disconnected is the bonding strap that is on the neutral (white) terminal. Sometimes this is a ground wire instead of a bonding strap. If there is a ground wire connected to your neutral terminal, disconnect it and connect it to the ground screw on the dryer’s frame. Make sure the dryer is unplugged before you begin working on it.
Q: I am a little confused as with my 3-prong plug, there was a green wire that was grounded to the dryer. When I installed my 4-prong plug, I replaced this green wire with the green wire from the 4-prong plug. What am I supposed to do with the green wire that was grounded to the dryer with the 3-prong plug? It is just hanging there now. The diagram with the dryer shows this green wire attached with the white wire to the center terminal. Is this what I should do?
A: If the green wire was already connected to the ground screw on dryer’s frame, then put it back there. The only wire or strap that needs to be disconnected is the one bonding the neutral terminal to the dryer’s frame. This is the terminal with the white wire and typically in the center.
Q: Okay, I tried this on my son’s dryer in his apartment. The problem was the 3-prong wires were all the same gray color. We put it on as we thought it should be layed out and when we plugged it in it blew out the power in his whole apartment. We had to find the breaker box on the whole apartment building to get the power back on. Do you think it would work if I just rotated the wires the opposite way? This made me a little nervous. Or maybe is there another way to tell the wires?
A: If you are trying to determine which wire is which on the 3-prong cord, then the 2 outer wires are your hot wires and the center is the ground. If you are trying to determine which wire goes to which terminal, then the terminals should already have color coded wires which go into the dryer. Typically, the terminal blocks are 3 position. The outer terminals are typically the hot wires and the center terminal is typically the neutral wire.
Q: We moved into a brand new home that has a 4 prong outlet. We purchased a 4 prong plug to switch out our 3 prong plug but it didn’t fit. We took a picture of the outlet and showed it to the hardware store and they sold us a plug that looked like it would work but it doesn’t. How many different 4 prong plugs are there?
A: There are several different configurations. What you need to do is look at the receptacle (outlet) to determine what you have. On the face of the receptacle you should be able to find the NEMA configuration, voltage and amperage ratings. Your receptacle should be a 14-30R, 125/250 volt @ 30 amps. You need a 14-30P plug.
Q: How about doing the reverse? My dryer has 4-prong wiring and the receptacle has 3 prongs. I know white-white, green-green, but I only have one extra line for the black and red from the new light gray cord. Any help before fireworks would be helpful!
A: I also wrote How To Change a 4 Prong Electric Dryer Power Cord To a 3 Prong Electric Power Cord. This article should help you out.
Q: I have a Maytag de212 dryer and was attempting to convert my 3-prong adapter to a 4-prong using your above instructions. I hooked it all up like shown, but nothing happens when I hit the start button on the dryer. Is it possible that I have a faulty cord? I plugged it up, checked the breaker to make sure it was on, so I just don’t get it now.
A: To determine if your cord is bad, simply check for voltage at the terminal block in the dryer. If you test between the black and red wires you should get approximately 240 volts. If you measure between the black & white, red & white, black & green and red & green you should get approximately 120 volts.
Q: I understand you pictures on how to change the cord on my dyer, however the wire on the far left side is green not red on my dryer, the middle wire is white and the far right wire is black. If I connected the 4 prong as instructed in the picture it would put the red wire on top of the green wire. What should I do?
A: It sounds like your dryer is only 120 volts. Do you have a gas dryer? DO NOT connect the red wire to the terminal with the green wire, this will create a short circuit and possibly damage your dryer. Check the voltage rating on your dryer to ensure it is 240 volts.
Q: Thanks for your instructions!…quick question….going from 3 prong to 4 prong…my 3 prong had a bonding strap attached to the white wire….where do i attach the green wire from the 4 prong? i don’t have a green screw attached to the dryer frame as illustrated in your picture above.
A: There should be a spot somewhere with the ground symbol and just missing a screw. You can get a green ground screw at your local hardware store.
Q: Thanks so much for the instructions!! I only have a minor question or two. There is a small white wire already attached to the neutral terminal. Can I put my white wire from my plug directly on top of that and use one screw or do they have to be separated?? If they do have to be separated, what type of metal screw do I use (I am short one if they need to be separated)? Okay, three questions…my connector is not doing it’s job because the cord hole is not large enough to insert the connector to stabilize it. Do I really need this or can it just hang?
A: Did you drop one of the screws down the back of the dryer? Check with Appliance Parts Pros to see if you can get another. You shouldn’t place both wires under the same screw. The wires can loosen creating more problems and possible a fire.
The cable (wire) needs to be in a connector. This will prevent the wires from being pulled out. This will also prevent the cable from becoming damaged by rubbing on the metal hole where it enters the dryer.
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