Answers to Electrical Questions About Replacing an Electric Baseboard Heater with a Receptacle and Wiring an Attic Vent
October 13, 2008
Jason asks:
I would like to remove an unused baseboard heater from a wall. I understand I need to either remove the wiring or install a junction box to make it safe. I’m wondering if it would possible to use the existing wires and install a plug?
Answer:
You probably can, but it depends on the voltage, how the circuit is wired and if there are other heaters and t-stats on this circuit.
If your heater circuit is 240 volts and there are other heaters and t-stats that are going to remain on this circuit, then it can’t be done.
If your heater circuit is 120 volts and there is a wall mounted t-stat, then it can be done. Turn off the circuit, then you need to bypass the wall mounted t-stat and place a blank cover over the box. Then install your receptacle, turn the power back on and test.
If your heater circuit is 120 volts and there is a unit mounted t-stat, then you just need to install the receptacle.
If your heater circuit is 240 volts and there is a wall mounted t-stat, then you need to replace the double pole circuit breaker with a single pole circuit breaker and terminate the white wire to the neutral bar. Then you need to bypass the t-stat and put a blank cover on the box; terminations should be white to white and black to black. Next install your receptacle, turn on the circuit and test.
If your heater circuit is 240 volts and there is a unit mounted t-stat, then you need to follow the steps above to change the circuit breaker, install your receptacle and test.
Steve asks:
Hi,
I’m installing a power attic vent, already have it mounted and the thermostat wired according to the manufactures instructions. I’d like to tap an existing light/junction fixture box for power which is confusing me a little bit.
The area was wired for a kitchen (it hasn’t been changed over to one though) prior to my purchasing the home so I’m fairly certain that it is a 20amp circuit as all the wiring is done with 12/2 instead of 14/2 I don’t think I have any 15amp breakers in my box anyway. So this should be ample service for my vent.
I’ve also wired my attic vent with 12/2 for consistency as well.
My light fixture/junction is located in a convenient place so if I can get some help with tapping it that’d be great.
So there are two 12/2 wires going into the fixture/junction. There is a white and black connected to the actual light which is operated by a switch. Black is hot and white is dead until the switch is on to complete the circuit.
There is also a white joined to a black my tester shows this is also hot. I do believe it is related to an outlet on the circuit. If I connect my black from the attic exhaust to this group I know it’s my common hot.
But that leaves me a live black and dead white connected to my light to have as a common neutral if I use the white my fan logically won’t have power/a completed circuit until the switch is on.
So can I / should I use the black as my common neutral? I would think so, but I’d like to confirm it.
By the way I’m located in Rotterdam/Schenectady NY I read above that you have done work in this location. As far as I know a homeowner can still do his or her own wiring I had noticed a question regarding that issue as well.
Thanks in advanced,
Steve
Answer:
I’m a little confused as well Steve. How many wires are in your switch box? If it is only 1 – 12/2, then you should have a neutral already in your light box. I believe that you have constant power coming into the light box and an improperly wired switch loop going down to your switch.
If there is only 1 – 12/2 cable in your switch box, then you need to reconfigure some wires. First, turn off the power to this circuit. Then connect the black from the incoming power to the white wire going down to the switch. You also need to identify this white wire as a hot wire. To do this either wrap the wire with black electrical tape or use a black permanent marker. According the the National Electrical Code®, the only time you may use a white wire as a hot wire is in a switch loop and the wire needs to be identified as a hot wire. Now connect all of the ground wires together. Next connect the white wire from the incoming power to the white on the light. Then connect the black wire coming from the switch to the black wire on the light. At your switch, you need to identify the white wire as a hot wire as well. However, you do not need to reconfigure anything.
If there is more than one cable in your switch box, then I need more information to help you solve this problem.
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baseboard htr in bedroom not working so we replaced th,worked for 2 days now nothing,alumium wire,at the th there are three sets of joints feeding two other htrs I think thiers heating going on , because the th is cranked all the way and when we pull the th out of the wall it cools down and works again is it possible that the one htr draws to much causing some heatiing